August 10, 1883-
Abandoned station the 9th - under way at 2 P.M.
- 2 boats towed by launch -Tried to leave by western entrance all afternoon
and night getting through entrance nipped and the launch nearly lost, early
this A. M. ice set in so that the two boats unloaded and hauled on
ice - all but the watch turned in the bags for a sleep - roused up at 8
A.M. as the ebb-tide had cleared the way giving us a clean run from Sun
Bay to Cape Band where we arrived at 1:55 P.M. A distribution of
men and boats made on our arrival as follows - The English in boat found
at Thank God Harbor, Connell, Capt., myself one of the crew; The English
boat brought from Cape Hawkes, - Brainard, Capt; Our own whale boat, -
Rice, Capt; A meal at 5 P. M. when we turned in for a sleep, Connell, Esk,
Frederick and I in one bag - a lead on this side from shore out about
2 miles wide - Left Baird colors flying 11:15 P.M. 10th.
August 11, 1883-
Stopped by in a little south of Leiber at 2
A.M. - pushed boats through an opening in ice fort and behind a steep and
under way at 8:30 A. M. snowing early A. M. soon
stopping breakfast cold coffee and corned beef - took a box of corned beef
from cache north of Cracroft at 10: A. M. reached Cracroft 11 A.
M. - Lunch ashore 4 P. M. N of Carl Ritter Bay - dense fog, plenty of water
as far as we can see - 9 P. M. heavy fog yet - turned around once in it
- Haven’t found Carl Ritter Bay yet - Forced in by ice about 4 miles N
of Carl Ritter Bay at 11:30 P. M. boats safely sheltered - nothing but
solid ice south - ice running north rapidly on rising tide -
August 12, 1883-
9 A.M. under way - pulled in at 4:30 for coffee
- fighting on all day no unloading - snowing all day - All last winter’s
ice we are meeting - channel full of ice from shore to shore with occasional
leads constantly opening and closing - At 8 P. M. routed out by watch from
bags - open water along shore - reached Carl Ritter Bay and took on cache
left as we came up - Under way again at 10 P. M. 48 m, running across
bay from cache - slowed down but once -
August 13, 1883-
1 A.M. snow ended - a clear run since leaving
Carl Ritter Bay - I am at the helm - we have made about 10 miles south
of bay in clear of shore as far ahead as we can see - a short time ago
passed an indentation in coast that we named rum bay as there was an issue
of rum while crossing it. 4 A.M. I and Ellison on watch over boats
- our open water played out at 1:45 A.M. when we met a solid pack apparently
no movement - everybody sleeping ashore - snowing again - 7 A. M. breakfast
which I eat and immediately turned in again - soon routed out and under
way - made about half mile and are now at 2 P.M. well up and are sheltering
ourselves the best we know how among the rocks from a heavy snow storm
- we are now between 12 and 15 miles below Carl Ritter Bay. Pulled
in shore after inching along for several hours in a heavy snow storm -
at 7 P.M. an outlook from the hill reports all progress barred by solid
ice - hauled up and unloaded everything to dry - snow storm ended about
6:30 P.M. - will lay here till pack opens. A seal shot just before
landing by Lt. K - had it for supper - splendid eating - on watch from
10 to 12 P. M.
August 14, 1883-
Breakfast at 8 A.M. - clearing up slowly - 10
A.M. on watch till 12 - Myself, Jewell, Israel, Gardiner, Rice and Connell
are Captains of the watch 2 hours at a time - A solid pack from shore to
shore moving slowly S - I shot a knot this morning - Lt. K and Long hunting
- no game or tracks seen - From an observation taken at noon our position
is placed at 80 degrees 44 minutes N. just 1 degree we have made S - 10
P. M. on watch - ice still packed moving south - wind shifted from N to
S.W. 9:30 P.M. - on watch again at 10 P.M. - ice moving slowly N.
August 15, 1883-
Breakfast, 8 A.M. - wind during night shifted
back to N.E. and minimum temperature 21.0 degrees - young ice formed along
shore - on watch 10 A.M. - 10:30 A.M. all hands moving launch ahead with
poles along shore - pack behind setting in on shore - ice solid to the
S. give up the attempt of getting any farther with launch at 2:55 P.M.
- Steaming all the time and moved here only about 400 yards after which
we moved our boats out alongside of a grounded berg by unloading and hauling
them apart of the way across the ice.
August 16, 1883-
Same position - ice solid moving S slowly to
NE. gale prevailing -
August 17, 1883-
On watch from 1 to 3 A.M. - Received from Lt.
Lockwood this morning his promissory note for $ 64 25/100, his share of
the reward for beating the English highest north - on watch from 1 to 3
A.M. - old ice from the opposite (illegible). Went on hill this afternoon
- the east side of channel is entirely clear of ice - A change of wind
to the S. W. would help us out of our box - we are in behind grounded bergs
and are liable to freeze in - we are inside the movement of the pack-
August 18, 1883-
3 P.M. off watch - heavy snow storm and S. E.
wind brisk - pack going N rapidly - 3 men just called from boats with axe
and poles, I suppose to get steam launch in open water - boats fastened
to 1 berg and launch to another about 75 yards apart. Open water as far
as we can see in storm about ½ mile S along coast - protecting ourselves
from snow by covering the boats with sails - The moving of the launch a
failure - An immense berg at the stern of our boats split causing
great excitement and routing all hands out - no damage done - I heard it
splitting this A.M. low tide and routed the men out on a false alarm -
I thought she was going - 8:45 P.M. undertook the job of getting launch
and boats out to open water - succeeded and under full steam with boats
in tow headed south reaching without a stop within 10 miles of Cape Lawrence
at 3:40 A.M. 19th when we met the solid pack again and camped for breakfast
and sleep behind an opening in foot ice - The Commanding Officer
met with an accident on the run - fell overboard off the launch-
August 19, 1883-
Breakfast 8 A.M. on English potatoes and polaris
pemmican - under way again at 10 A.M. a S.N. wind opening ice along shore
- a short run when we entered a blind lead necessitating forcing our way
through the loose ice to shore - almost gave it up as a failure as the
engine of launch partly broke down - finally reached shore at 12:45 P.M.
- The ice is all slush - has been terribly ground up and now (2 P.M.)
is running N at the rate of 4 miles an hour - fine weather - Brainard and
the Doctor afoot to Cape Lawrence for a look at 7:30 P.M.
August 20, 1883-
Pulled out at 5 A.M., picking Brainard and party
up on the way - he says Rawlings Bay full of ice and brisk S.W. wind driving
ice off shore - Rounded Cape Lawrence and landed inside Rawlings Bay at
11 A.M. - an open water run all morning - waiting now for a turn of the
tide, hoping it will open a way for us across bay - The Valorous hauled
on beach for repairs, leaking badly - Frederick “Esk” hunting - now for
a sleep on shore - 8:30 P.M. under way headed across bay - passage looks
favorable although full of loose ice - would have started sooner, but launch
grounded - had to wait for rising tide - Crossed the bay 2 hours, 10 Min.,
skirting along the inner side of immense floe bergs - young ice so thick
at times almost stopping the launch -
August 21, 1883-
Landed N of Cape Wilkes 12:20 A.M. on account
of thick fog and running ice - 8 A. M. breakfast over and waiting for an
opening in a rising tide and ice running S. rapidly - at 9:40 A.M. pulled
out - made about 500 yards when the pack set down on us making lively work
- our boats were pressed against the foot ice and nearly crushed - threw
our loads on shore and finally succeeded in making all safe - from the
time of starting till the effort ended was only 50 minutes - it seemed
an age as we expected every moment to see all the boats crushed, the launch
included - We tried to make the point of Cape Wilkes when we started -
before starting it was seen and remarked by all the men that the ice was
setting hard on the point and jamming on shore - Loaded up again and run
inside Richardson Bay - 1:30 P.M. and laid to for an opening across - Rice
had the misfortune to get wet to his waist twice during our nip - we call
him our water fowl as he gets in very often - a strong S. W. breeze blowing
ice out of Bay. Waiting but a short time gave us an opening -
I turned in for a sleep while crossing - camped for the night on S side
Richardson Bay -
August 22, 1883-
Lifted English of rations (240) this morning
at Cape Collinson run about a mile and stopped for breakfast and to repair
launch - run her against a berg full speed and blew out a steam-cock -
we were on the N side of Joiner Bay when accident to launch happened -
repaired by the time we finished breakfast and resumed our serpentine way
reaching Cape McClintock at 8:55 A.M. - the weather so thick and ice jammed
on point of cape we fastened to in port waiting for it to clear up.
Snowed all night long, ending and turning to a light rain at 8:30 A.M.
- We are now south of 80 degrees and if it only clears up and will still
hold southerly we will be able to get in a good run as the ice is being
drawn off this shore. 2:35 under way again - soon rounded Cape McClintock
- a view from the hill inside Cape shows a fine lead across Scoresby Bay
- Pipe of pump broken - some time to fix it before getting under way -
rain has stopped and Cape Norton Shaw can be seen - Crossed the bay without
any trouble - now a short distance beyond Cape Shaw when the ice set in
and ran into ice fort 6:20 P.M. - beginning at N side of Rawlings Bay we
have been continually passing large icebergs - a large number in entrance
of Rawlings Bay-
August 23, 1883-
We were barely allowed time to finish our breakfast
when we pulled out and pulled about 500 yards when we were brought to a
full stop again by packed ice - laid to and filled our kegs with fresh
water - ice set in shore forcing us to seek shelter in openings of ice
foot - sun shining brightly - all clothing and bags spread on beach to
dry- 3 P.M. an opening showed up which we immediately took advantage of
say but a short distance when we found ourselves beset - landed on a small
floe, cooked our afternoon meal and turned into the bags, all but the watch
- 11 P.M. am on watch - we are still beset, ice moving slowly S on the
rising tide - we are about ¼ mile from shore and about 200 yards
south of a large berg -
August 24, 1883-
At 6 A.M. ice opened sufficiently to allow us
to reach shore at 6:20 A.M. when we tied up for breakfast -our big berg
grounded allowing the ice to loosen on our side - we must be on the meeting
of the N and S tide - this morning the ice has a slow movement to the S
on an ebb tide - Ice pressed the boats close to ice foot - Launch and ice-boat
cut loose and drifted with the pack - ice drifting around point of Cape
John Barrow - ran in between a split iceberg that is grounded on beach,
launch laying alongside of berg just inside of line of drift - rising tide
and ice running rapidly south - current very changeable at this point -
we made our harbor at 10:30 A.M. - raining and snowing - the whale boat
and Valorous are about 300 yards N of us all right - at 3:30 P.M. the boats
all together and safely tied up behind an iceberg grounded on S side Cape
Barrow.
August 25, 1883-
Snowed heavily during last night, ending early
this A.M. started at 4:40 A.M. steaming and pulling into Gould Bay at 7:10
A.M. when we couldn’t pull any further and pulled to shore for breakfast
- weather thick, foggy, sun shining at times - 10 A.M. inching along a
few hundred yards farther and now tied to a small flow berg - Beiderbeck
quite sick - Jake unwell - Rice fell overboard opposite Cape Frazier -a
change of clothing and he is all right again - Esk Fred shot a small seal
- number of the men drank some of the blood - disagreed with some of them
- Doctor tried to get me to drink some but I couldn’t go it- An observation
at noon places us 79 degrees 45 minutes N, 15 miles N of Cape Hawke’s latitude
- Israel puts us N of Frazier yet, so we are not in Gould Bay - ½
past 3 P.M. our floe started N - cast loose and sheltered behind grounded
bergs - closer to shore open water approaching us rapidly - expect to get
under way inside 2 hours - Maury Bay is where we are now without doubt.
5:45 P.M. open water reached us at last, apparently lots of it-
August 26, 1883
4:15 A.M. we arrived here, inside Cape Louis
Napoleon - pretty good run, occasional stoppage on account of ice -weather
very thick and foggy, snowing at times - we are now tied inside of Dobbin
Bay waiting for clear weather to get a view across - bear tracks seen along
foot ice and black and white fox run past us also a wolf. Under way
across Dobbin Bay at 9:50 A.M. through a dense fog and floating mass of
ice - coal nearly all gone - but one sack left - if we set stuck in the
ice we are out of luck - No view of the ice has been had across the bay
before starting Washington Irving Island has I think been seen but
once and that just before arriving inside of the N side of bay. 1:50
P.M. have just reached Cape Hawkes - Rice gone to Troney Island to examine
cairn and the men are hunting for English Cache - we ran a long way up
the bay looking for a way, and had to retrace and head straight across
from Cape to Cape. Shorty says that he can run the launch 40 miles
farther if they don’t buck ice with her - 4:20 P.M. everything ready for
a start - The English cache taken up, 4 bags hard bread, 7 boxes sterine
75 lbs. Each, and 12 cans potatoes - Rice back from island cairn not disturbed
- saw to Sabine apparently clear of ice along shore - no ship - something
must be rotten - under way again 4:25 P.M.
August 27, 1883-
2 P.M. - just off watch - I turned in for a
sleep shortly after starting last night and was suddenly awakened by the
sound of hauling boats up on a small floe after Hawkes course was taken
direct for Sabine which run us a long ways off from shore - we stopped
by the pack and hauled up at 10 P.M. last night - It is now thick and foggy
- Israel makes us, at noon, 79 degrees - 22 minutes N and 73 degrees 05
minutes W - young ice forming rapidly - temperature fell to 18 degrees
last night - it is now 29 degrees - I have caught up in sleep at last but
will turn in again for another snooze - the Commanding Officer made a few
remarks to the men this morning giving his reasons for running into the
pack - our drift since tieing up has been N - a tripod erected to be used
as a lookout -
August 28, 1883-
Temperature last night down to 13 degrees -
a clear day - ice increasing in thickness drifting in shore - song and
dance on ice after super -
August 29, 1883-
Cloudy - Gone S.W. a little today - a game of
whist -
August 30, 1883-
Position N and S unchanged - gone further out
in the channel - temperature down to 11.8 this morning - took act. of rations
on hand - have about 54 days rations - Began the burning of sterine for
cooking this eve, the alcohol saving for colder weather and sledging -
August 31, 1883-
A light snow storm with Northerly winds - the
mid-day observation yesterday showed that we had went south 1.4 mile in
2 days - our sails spread over the boats to protect us from the snow -
our longitude yesterday 73 degrees 40 minutes - snow ended during the afternoon
-
Sept 1, 1883-
Walrus or norwhal heard blowing close to our piece
of ice - sighting for change of position is getting tiresome, the movement
is so small, apparently S.E. Esk Fred shot a small seal - got a drink
of rum for it - he says he is going on a drunk for he is after another
one - The liver and heart was given to me as a days ration - symptoms of
scurvy I am afraid as my mouth is and has been sore for some time - I was
put on lime-juice lasr night - Latitude today, 79 degrees 19 minutes -
Two large ice-bergs have been chasing us since being here getting closer
every day - They made their influence felt upon our position at last, for
at 2:30 P.M. the loose ice suddenly closed up in our rear lifting the launch
almost out of the water - our small boats we pulled up on the floe every
thing then 4 P.M. apparently sound - The ice going rapidly south - launch
almost dry high up her (illegible) 6 P.M. ice loosened (illegible) launch
to take her natural position - On watch from 4 to 6 A.M. and 8 to 10 P.M.
- Jens killed a seal shortly after I came off last watch, making 4 seals
so far, all small ones making only a full meal for us all, that is one
-
Sept 3, 1883-
Yesterday thick, very foggy - near midnight
last night our small floe growing smaller and an opening presenting itself
we moved a short distance west to another of larger size but the same kind
of ice (illegible) Latitude today at noon 79 degrees 15 minutes 6
seconds - Whistlers time out today - took on for 5 years more - A council
held this P.M. - decided I believe to wait for a few days longer before
making a thorough attempt to reach shore - in the mean time a sled or two
will be made out of the lining of launch and tents out of the sails of
the boat -
Sept. 4, 1883-
4:40 P.M. Jens has just shot and secured another
small seal. The vampires are turning out for a drink of blood - a
small sled made this morning, dog sled pattern - work begun on a tent for
16 men - covering to be made for the ice boat for the other 9 - snowing
nearly all day - boat sails used for tent - 9 P.M. a lead opening around
the floe southward we pulled the launch until she made steam when the lead
played out and ice closing in we hauled the boats up on a piece of old
ice, put on a watch and turned in - we made good towards home about one
mile -
Sept. 5, 1883-
An observation today at noon places us
79 degrees 08 minutes 6 seconds, a change of 7 miles to the S in 2 days
- The launch nipped this morning alongside of our floe - raised herself
nicely -
Sept. 6, 1883-
Snowing at intervals - at noon, Latitude, 79
degrees 6.7 minutes - Another small seal killed by Long in the afternoon
- brisk northerly winds driving us rapidly south - Connell, Esk, Fred and
I occupy one bag - so rotten that we repaired it today by sowing on piece
of sail top and bottom - An issue of rum after supper -
Sept. 7, 1883-
A strong northerly wind sent us down south quite
rapidly - at noon our latitude was 79 degrees 00.6 minutes - 8 P.M. Cook
this evening - At this hour temperature 9.2, a fall of 10 degrees since
7 P.M. - Wind has abated and is now from the S - ice looks solid all around
us - The whale boat and (illegible) boat under one covering -
Sept 8, 1883-
Temperature down to zero at 1:30 A.M.
Working on sleds, talking about starting across for shore tomorrow - 7
shots put into a walrus without effect last night - no change in our position
since the storm - ice packed solid and all pools frozen over - issue of
rum, ½ gill -
Sept. 9, 1883-
Snowing all day and sleds all loaded - Three
English 12 man and 2 that we made here out of boards from launch - Another
council called and decided to move tomorrow if weather clear enough - Steam
launch made fast to the floe and blowed off this evening. One of the (illegible)
by the Commanding Officer -
Sept. 10, 1883
10 A.M. - Still snowing heavily - can’t see
the shore - Ordered to stay in bags and will start as soon as it clears
- The final start made at 2 P.M. - Steam launch and walrus abandoned -
colors flying from both - moved a mile in three trips taking two boats,
whale and ice boat and all our staff camping at 7:05 P.M.
Sept. 11, 1883-
Still snowing - under way at 8:40 A.M. - Yesterday
on starting I was placed in command of one of the new sleds and picked
my team, six including myself - After picking my crew the command taken
away and given to Lt. Kisling - bury for which I was glad as it broke down
soon after but was repaired in time for a second load - Jewell and three
men with the other one his career short as it also broke down and was abandoned
- We went into camp this eve at 3 P.M. - Brainard and the Doctor walked
ahead about 2 miles to take a look from a large berg - on their return
reported that they heard three barks of a dog towards Cape Camperdown and
new ice -
Sept. 12, 1883-
Party sent out to look our floe over - On their
return a council held and a start made at once - The whale boat left and
all staff moved in two loads made about ½ mile-
Sept. 13, 1883-
Moved our stuff in three trips today about 2
miles - heavy snow and rough rubble - broke through once - a watch put
on for bears last night to be kept up all hands stand it - Latitude at
noon, 78 degrees 56.9 minutes -
Sept. 14, 1883-
Pulled out after breakfast with the intention
of moving our stuff in two loads - it would have been done but they lkoaded
the small sled too heavy on the last load partly breaking it down requiring
us to make two trips - Lieut. Kislingbury sent Henry ahead after the large
sled (illegible) - In the meantime a heavy S. W. gale sprang up - when
we arrived at camp we were told that we were drifting N.E. rapidly which
did not surprise us as wee could hear the ice outside us moving all day
- Our course today was parallel with the shore instead of towards it as
I think it should have been - made about 3 miles - Israel says our camp
before drifting was either 78 degrees 54.8 minutes (illegible) - I have
a pain in my side from today’s work -
Sept. 15, 1883-
The heavy S.W. gale still continuing (12 noon)
- have went N rapidly - Israel from observation reports 79 degrees 18 minutes,
five days work for nothing and short our two boats - we are also away out
in the channel several miles -
Sept. 16, 1883-
At noon our position is 79 degrees 00.7 minutes,
directly N of Littleton Island - sun shining brightly, drying foot gear
and bags - another council held - decided to wait a few days to see which
way we are going to drift - an account of stock says 40 days full rations
- everybody growling because we did not pull direct for shore -
Sept. 17. 1883-
Whisler’s birthday, sugar in his coffee - after
we all turned in last night the two (2) Esks. went out and shot a small
seal each - we are talking of moving at noon - if we do we will have to
pull over the same ground again as the pack, since we have laid here, has
made a half mile and our old road leads directly to Sabine - it is about
10 miles to the nearest land N of Sabine a few points - An estimate of
weights made this morning call for 2737 pounds outside our rations - Latitude
at 8 A.M. 78 degrees 56.5 minutes - Pulled out at 1:10 P.M., in the
meantime our floe spinning around opposite to the hands of a watch -
Sept. 18, 1883-
Off again at 8 A.M. soon reaching open water
- 12 noon Latitude 78 degrees 50.3 minutes - hard work - lots of small
lanes of open water - The ice-boat in use to ferry us from floe to floe
- do it in three (3) trips drifting further from the shore all the time
- ice running north now - 1 P.M. are trying to make a large floe of ice,
the first old ice we have had an opportunity to reach - 2 boat loads over
now nearly - saw 3 walruses - ice now drifting in shore - At 4 P.M. a desperate
attempt made to reach an old piece of ice. The English sled loaded
with sleeping gear and rations pulled out over grinding ice and ice of
this year’s formation which was safely reached with only one mishap, Rice
falling in to his neck - The rest of the stuff and boat brought across
in 2 more trips - a supper then after which we pulled to the shore side
of the floe distance about 3 miles from shore - ice fort plainly to be
seen - camped at 9 P.M.
Sept. 19, 1883-
A southerly gale has driven us away out in the
channel. At 5 P.M. (illegible) miles east of Sabine - gale subsiding
about 6 P.M.- A council called after supper - all opposed to moving but
the Commanding Officer who wishes to move tomorrow - open water all around
the floe -
Sept. 20, 1883-
A heavy fog shuts out our view - waiting for
something to turn up - we are entirely out of salt and have been for some
time - use salt water for cooking our stews - Jewell’s birthday - a hard
seal shot this P.M., weight about 300 pounds - high N and N.W. wind (illegible)
foggy - Cooking supper in the tepee with sterine Choked Bender out
- changed places with Connell in our bag.
Sept. 21, 1883-
Snowed all last night and today - The whale
boat crew built an ice house and moved into it this eve - The first fresh
meat gave me the colic - A diet of canned beef ordered for supper and breakfast
- Connell the same - Connell very bad - changed places with Salor in bag
- Salor going in tepee - 3 small seal killed today - men working on foot
gear, sowing canvass legging on the bottoms of their leather boots - I
have nothing but a pair of leather tops which I will try and make soles
of - I was placed in command of the ice-boat this P.M.
Sept. 22, 1883-
All excitement at about 11 A.M., the whale boat
seen drifting by and an effort made to recover it but was unable to reach
the floe it was on on account of slush ice that would not bear a man or
allow the ice-boat to be forced through - Salor, Snyder and myself on light
diet: - diarrhoea - I am better and the others improving - getting colder,
8 degrees at 5:30 P.M.
Sept. 23, 1883-
In the bags all day - strong N.E. wind with
snow.
Sept 24, 1883-
The nearest land is about 5 miles, distinct
at 9 A.M. We are on the meridian of Brevoort Island - Latitude, 78
degrees 50’-8- Ice boat used this morning for an observation - Towards
shore a hasty retreat made on account of loose moving ice - Tea ration
cut down to half teaspoonful per man - living on seal now - enough yet
for 3 days - went to bed hungry tonight at 4:30 P.M. Latitude 78
degrees 49, and closer to shore than we have been yet -
Sept. 25, 1883 -
Temperature, 11.5 - N.E. gale blowing
hard all day driving us in towards shore and packing and piling the ice
at a terrible rate between us and shore - at 12:15 P.M. the pressure split
the floe we are on leaving us only a small piece about an acre and furthermost
part of the floe - several men suffering with diarrhoea - Connell quite
bad - I go on watch from 6 to 8 P.M. We are new about 3 miles N.E.
of Brevoort Island and moving off-shore slowly probably with the tide -
The flood tide may set us back and closer to shore -
Sept. 26, 1883-
At 4 A.M. an attack of the diarrhoea, lasted
until 12:30 P.M., a hard time of it - blowing a NE gale - our floe began
mashing up 1 P.M. when we made a rush for a larger one getting everything
over safely-
Sept. 27, 1883-
A NE gale, no body out -
Sept 28, 1883-
A move made towards shore this A.M. - used the
boat to cross a lead of open water - camped within a 1 ½ miles from
shore - Gardiner suddenly sick- Gardiner suffering with a felon on his
left hand - Plenty walrus seen -
Sept 29, 1883-
Made 2 ferries and the party set ashore at 7
P.M. - I am cook - landed on a promontory supposed to be a few miles south
of Leconte Island - The Esk hunting seal all day - no game.
Sept. 30, 1883-
Scouting the country for game - no game or tracks.
To the rear, the country filled with glaciers and snow capped - Salor attempted
to reach Cape South of Ross Bay - stopped by open water within half mile
of Cape - his report stopped preparations of party for Sabine tomorrow
- Rice volunteered to take Jens. 4 days rations out sleeping on their backs
and try to reach Sabine along shore - Accepted by Commanding Officer -
parties looking for a building site -
Oct. 1, 1883-
Rice and Jens off after breakfast - parties
out gathering moss - a fox walked up to our cooking pots amongst us and
began eating sterine - several shots fired at him but he got away wounded
in a leg - 35 days ¾ rations all hands -
Oct. 2, 1883-
Moved camp about 1 mile up coast where loose
rock can be obtained for house -
Oct 3, 1883-
35 years old today - no birthday dining, but
a drink of rum - selected site and began building 3 stone huts, 8 feet
by 16 feet in this position 1
3 - I am in charge
2
2, Brainard of 3 and, I suppose, Rice of 1 when he returns -
Oct. 4, 1883-
Our first game since landing, 4 ptarmagen killed
by Cross - a slight increase in the ration while building our houses -
Oct. 6, 1883-
A seal killed today - dressed about 50 pounds
- walls of houses up - before building we drew straws for the boat - Brainard
drew it and uses it for roof - we all slept inside our walls last night
-
Oct. 7, 1883-
Shacks progressing slowly - Connell’s service
no longer required as a non-com - a chronic growler - Rice anxiously looked
for - a walrus killed on the ice but lost by rolling in the water -
Oct. 9, 1883-
Glorious news - Rice in this evening from Sabine
- found that vessel had been up in 82 and that Proteus this year
unfortunately sunk by ice in Buchanan Strait - about 1200 rations at Sabine
which we think will carry us safely through the winter - Lt. Garlington
in command of relief party when Proteus sunk made for Greenland - 2 vessels
outside ice looking for us -
Oct. 10, 1883-
Discussing our chances and the Commanding Officer
decides to move for Sabine at once - Rice volunteered for a trip to Cape
Isabel -
Oct. 11, 1883-
Move our load to south side of Ross Bay - returned
very tired and awful hungry - Rice and Esk Fred off for Isabel - Long shot
and secured a seal - 3 days more grub - Gardiner improving slowly, not
able to do anything yet though -
Oct. 12, 1883-
Abandoned our stone huts and headed for Cape
Sabine - Camped on S side of Ross Bay very tired - not much fuel, so had
warm tea and cold stew -
Oct. 13, 1883-
Made two loads of our stuff and camped on N
side Ross Bay - distance across bay about 6 miles of fine smooth ice along
the foot of a glacier - cold stew again for supper -
Oct. 14, 1883-
Headed for Cocked Hat Island through a strait
that we call Rice’s strait discovered by Rice when he came up to Sabine.
So Cape Sabine is an island about 2 miles in circumference - camped within
a mile of Cocked Hat Island -
Oct. 15, 1883-
Loaded too heavily this A.M., breaking our sled
after passing Cocked Hat Island - 2 hours to repair sled - left part of
the load on the ice and pulled ahead - Camping at wooden cache from Proteus
where we have decided to build our winter quarters -
Oct. 16, 1883-
With Commanding Officer visited Beebe cache
of 1882 - dug it out - (illegible) returned and laid foundations
of house - Lt. Lockwood and party bringing up load left on ice -
Oct. 17, 1883-
Brought up whale boat and provisions from Beebe
cache -
Oct. 18, 1883-
Working on house -
Oct. 20, 1883-
Moved into stone hut - one hour for the entry
- (illegible)
Oct 21, 1883-
Brought up load left at entrance of Rice Strait
- Long and Esk on a four day hunt - several men sick - I am nearly played
- horrible pain in my right side and back -
Oct 22, 1883-
Working on house, putting in gravel - Rice and
party to Sabine to examine road and brought up a load on their backs of
clothing - Ellis’ 43rd birthday celebrated in rum and canned mulberries
-
Oct 23, 1883-
Staid in my bag all day, played out - party
to Sabine after English cache -
Oct. 27, 1883-
Supposed to be the last day of sunshine this
year - Evening readings -
Oct. 28, 1883-
To Sabine in a terrible storm - sled broke down
- unloaded and come home -
Oct. 31, 1883-
Bender killed a fox this A.M. with his fist
- 1 seal and 1 fox game here - Long to Rice’s Strait for 5 days -
All stuff in today but 144 pounds meat at Isabella - Towner club organizes
tomorrow A. M.
Nov. 1, 1883-
Schneider, our cook, killed a fox - hard bread,
butter and coffee for breakfast - for supper, roast beef, bread and tea
- we will get now 4 ¼ ounces meat only a day -
Nov. 2, 1883-
Rice (illegible) - Lt. K. sick (illegible) -
This we 16 ounces in all is what we get to eat a day for 120 days (illegible)
parties get game (illegible) will be added according to weight (illegible)
only 4 ¼ ounces meat (illegible) 12 other include (illegible) about
4 - The foxes we get will not be included in the (illegible) but will be
extra - The bread allowance 6 ½ ounces included in the 16 ounces
also - short commons - (illegible) to be taken each day by all the men
- Snowing this eve - The (illegible) get the heart and liver of their game
- I (illegible) my (illegible) over the blubber (illegible) very good.
(illegible) the blood about 2 ounces good (illegible)
Nov 3, 1883-
Long in (illegible) after 5 days rations - Killed
one seal, another ¼ of an ounce to our daily ration - Lt. K better
Nov 4, 1883-
Eat a fox dinner, voted the best meal (illegible)
reduction. Long left for hunt this A.M. - working on a snow house
for provisions - rum ½ gill with a lemon to a man-
Nov. 5, 1883-
I set a fox trap today - men very hungry-
Nov. 6, 1883-
Brainard visiting English rations - men licking
papers the sugar and tea tied in - seal for dinner -
Nov. 7, 1883-
Esk Fred in from tent - too stormy and cold
to hunt -
Nov. 8, 1883-
Party brought in tent from point and only 1
seal - Quite a row this eve about some one entering commissary shack -
Beiderbick saw some one jump out in the dark from the shack - The roll
called and Schneider found to be the only man out - So it must have been
S. for no good purpose as no one is allowed in it. Brainard has wondered
that the bread Has been disturbed several times heretofore - Schneider
appears also to have visited the rum can from his actions - S. denies being
in but facts are against him - Lt. Kislingbury better - Schneider resigns
as cook for our mess - Bender cook temporarily - Temperature - 31.5 ; inside
our house this A.M. + 14.0 -
Nov. 10, 1883-
Sad news - Rice in alone at 12 A.M. reporting
his party about 18 miles from here with Elison dying, freezing to death
- Brainard and Esk Fred started at 4:30 A.M. to their relief - Elison freezing
ever since they left Isabella - Lieut. Lockwood and 5 men with sled started
2 hours later -
Nov. 12, 1883-
Lieut Lockwood and party returned at 2 A.M.
bringing in Elison alive but his chances of living are small - the rest
of the party tired and hungry - 3 ounces of meat lost of the extra issue
to Lt. Lockwoods party Turned in by all but Lt. L. who asked it for
himself and eat his share -
Nov. 14, 1883-
Day before yesterday I moved into a bag with
Lynn and Ellis - Tomorrow I change into Lieut Greely’s mess - another fox
killed last night - Elison in great pain - feet, hands and face badly frozen
-
Nov. 15, 1883-
Cold and clear -33.5 - Lieut. Kislingbury better
- Elison helpless. Good food and dishes the principal subject of
conversation - I sleep in the N.W. corner and sleep uncomfortable -
Nov. 16, 1883-
Men complaining of cramps in stomach - Dr. says
hunger - Tide came near flooding us today -
Nov. 17, 1883-
Beiderbick complaining of a sore finger - very
bad, something like Gardiner’s - fancy dishes all the talk -
Nov. 18, 1883-
Fancy drinks all the talk this Brainard erected
a flag on a high point near the wrecked cache as a mark for any one coming
from the other side - A son of a gun for breakfast, roast beef for supper,
rum and lemon between.
Nov. 19, 1883-
Cold - awful hungry - 2 spoonfuls of bread and
cup of chocolate for breakfast - 2 foxes killed.
Nov. 21, 1883-
Seal-skin stew for breakfast and coffee.
Nov. 22, 1883-
Another fox killed this A.M.
Nov. 24, 1883-
2 foxes killed yesterday - turned in bags -
can’t afford exercise on our food -
Nov. 28, 1883-
Active preparations for Thanksgiving dinner
- about a double feed - storming from the W.
Nov 29, 1883-
Thanksgiving in the morning - a psalm and few
songs, after which a bill of fare imagined by each man for his birthday
on his return home proposed to be eaten by each member of the party - breakfast,
lunch and dinner fox stew, and rice stirred with raisins and blubber, after
which a rum punch made the evening pass finely - all in good spirits -
appearance of open water -
Nov. 30, 1883-
Temperature +30 - snowing - The channel is evidently
open - not feeling well this A.M.
Dec. 2, 1883-
Heavy E gale last night - filled up passage
way with snow - blew wood away - Then 590 blown away -
Dec. 5, 1883-
Another gale last night
Dec. 6, 1883-
14th fox killed this A.M. - Out of tobacco -
Dec. 8, 1883-
Open water - roaring of ice constantly heard
in channel - Good dishes all the talk
Dec. 9, 1883-
4 foxes killed last night and this A.M. - 4
months today since leaving Conger - All well, but Elison, and in good health
- apparently of good spirits -
Dec. 10, 1883-
Storming from the west - one cup of chocolate
for my breakfast only -
Dec. 17, 1883-
Warm and cloudy - all apparently well - Elison
slowly improving - may lose a foot though and hand -
Dec. 18, 1883-
Room (illegible) and empty the urinal tub on
carrying the tub (illegible) This A.M. found myself so weak that
I could hardly (illegible) stand up, everything swimming around me - We
are still fortunate in getting water from a small lake close to our (illegible)
A great saving in fuel We obtain our salt by cooking
our seal and foxes and stews in salt water - The English beef is quite
fresh but we use gunpowder on it.
Dec. 20, 1883-
Our darkest day, tomorrow the sun starts back
- a cheering thought for us - I suffer a great deal with a (illegible)
on my feet - Our 20th fox killed today -
Dec. 25, 1883-
An extra feed - 1 gill rum, seal stew, rice
pudding - songs and recitations - Records read - Bender punch and (illegible)
songs in all languages.
Jan 1, 1884-
All in good spirits but weak - water still holds
out - Think our fuel will last till 1st March - (illegible)
Elison, Cross and Henry frost bites - Gardiner (illegible) Biederbick,
sore fingers. Elison will lose both feet and hands - not suffering
much pain - A fine fox stew for dinner - Gardiner treated all hands
to a smoke -
Jan. 4, 1884-
An attempt to enter commissary by cutting canvass
of roof.
Jan. 13, 1884-
Depression of spirits considerable - Lieut.
L. quite unwell (illegible) at a discount this A. M. - apparently
a bad effect - The use of tea leaves ordered discontinued (illegible)
this speech -
Jan. 15, 1884-
Fresh water gave out today - quantity of tea
reduced one half - ½ pint night and morning.
Jan. 16, 1884-
Some of the men very weak, hard work to keep
them off their backs -
Jan. 17, 1884-
Cross and Lieut. Lockwood quite weak.
Jan. 18, 1884-
Cross died at 1:30 P.M. of dropsical affection
- to be buried tomorrow - he was discovered unconscious at 2 A.M. and remained
so until the end-
Jan. 19, 1884-
Cross buried at noon today on brow of hill,
east of our house about ¼ mile -
Jan 20, 1884-
Our Lake named Cross Lake after our deceased
member -
Jan. 21, 1884-
The loss of 12 milk cans discovered this A.M.
Taken by some member of the party - An increase to be made in hard bread
and butter on the 25th - Am suffering with cold feet in the bag -
Jan. 24, 1884-
9 ½ ounces bread and 4 ounces new bacon
with 3 ounces butter for supper tonight and breakfast tomorrow - The increase
beginning this evening - quite an improvement in the spirits of the men
- up out of their bags more than usual - Lieut, Lockwood improving -
Jan. 25, 1884-
Beiderbick’s birthday - Clear and windy -
Jan. 26, 1884-
Rice and Jens began feeding up for trip to Littleton
Island - The reading of Coningsby finished by Lieut, Kislingbury -
Jan. 27, 1884-
Our morning son of a gun not so pleasant to
the taste, owing to the absence of milk, but richer by the addition of
blubber -
End of Diary
Is Arctic
Exploration Worth its Cost?